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Treen is
a term used to describe any of a number of small, utilitarian items made
from wood. Treen, literally means "from a tree" and can cover
anything from carved kitchen ware such as spoons and porringers, to turned
boxes and bowls. Though the word has been out of general use for some
time, it is returning and is particularly apt for the many small hand
turned objects now being made.
The
first step in making a small container like the ones shown, is to bore
a hole in a wood blank. Our mandrels require a 1-1/4" hole which
can be bored with a multi-spur, brad point or Forstner bit. The depth
can be anything up to 4" for a two inch turning blank. It is wise
to use a drill press vice or clamp, as shown to prevent the blank from
spinning and hurting your hand. Of course the drill press should be set
at it’s slowest possible speed.
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The blank
is then slid onto the large mandrel and secured by bringing the tailstock
up to clamp it. Note that a pointless (no pun intended) live center is
used to avoid marking the bottom of the vessel. The sharp edge of the
mandrel will grip the bottom of the hole and hold it firmly for turning.
Both mandrels
have tapped holes in the small end so that a draw bar may be fitted to
prevent them from working out of the spindle hole.
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The container
can then be turned. Since it is fully supported within, it can be made
very thin without danger of coming apart or collapsing in the lathe.
In addition,
it can be removed from the mandrel and reinstalled without concentricity
problems and the cavity will always be centered since the part is turned
around the hole.
The only
problem that can arise is if the blank, having been bored, is not turned
for some time, allowing the wood to shrink or distort so that it will
not fit over the mandrel. It is best to not bore the cavity until you
are ready to turn the part.
The smaller
mandrel is for turning the lid and stopper. The lid being the decorative
exterior part and the stopper being the fitted part that goes into the
top of the vessel. These two parts are made separately to make them easier
to turn and fit.
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Drill the
blanks for the lid and stopper with a 1/2" drill, slightly more than
3/8" deep, and use super glue to install the female fittings. Both
parts may be turned on the small mandrel
without the use of the tail stock. It will be safer and more secure if
a draw bar is fitted for this operation. You can make the draw bar yourself
from a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod, a nut and washer.
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A
brass gauge ring is supplied which can be slipped over the small mandrel.
It is 1-1/4" OD and serves to help turn the stopper to it’s proper
size. Though the stopper may be made to fit very well initially, humidity
and age will probably change the shape of both the vessel and the stopper
so that they no longer fit as well. Using wood from the same stock with
the grain oriented the same way will help prevent these problems, but it
is also possible to fashion a more forgiving plug by making a "corked"
stopper. |
A
shallow groove can be cut in the stopper and a cork band glued in. The cork,
sands very easily and is springy enough to allow for the wood to expand
and contract without spoiling the fit. We supply the 1/16" cork sheet
for this purpose. Ordinary wood glue will work well for this, but it must
be allowed to dry overnight since it will cause the cork to expand if sanded
to shape before thoroughly dry, it will shrink back causing the joint to
be loose. |
A rubber
band is a handy way to hold the cork on the stopper while the glue dries.
The upper,
decorative part of the lid is turned on the lid mandrel and is simplified
since the tail stock is not used and end treatments, such as the ball,
are easy to perform.
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It too can
be removed from the mandrel at anytime to test its fit and appearance
against the vessel.
Once the
lid and stopper have both been finished they can be assembled by using
the 3/8" threaded stud to connect them. If a permanent connection
is desired, a drop of super glue on the stud will lock it in.
- Jerry
Beal, 2001
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